The Foreigner's Guide to Slovakia

Guláš stews are common in the area of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. What exactly is guláš? (gulyás – Hungarian spelling; goulash – English spelling) Broadly defined, guláš is a hearty, paprika-based dish that originated in Hungary. In Slovakia, the most common types of guláš are segedínsky guláš and perkelt, which is also a meat stew, usually served along with a pasta or with dumplings.

Segedínsky guláš is made with milk and cream, and only a light-colored meat is used, such as pork or chicken. Looking over the shoulder of my grandmother-in-law while she prepared it one afternoon, I took note of the recipe:

• 2 tablespoons of oil
• 1 medium onion chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1 pound (half kilo) pork or chicken cut in cubes
• 1 cup (250 ml) water
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 cups (3/4 liter) sauerkraut¹
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspon black pepper
• 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cumin

• 1/2 cup (175 ml) toasted flour²
  
• 1 cup (250 ml) milk
• 1 cup (250 ml) sour cream
• 1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 clove crushed garlic

Directions:
In the bottom of a pot, saute the onion in the oil. When the onion is clear, add the paprika and mix. Add the pork or chicken making sure to stir often. When the meat is entirely white in color, add the water and bay leaf, and let simmer on a low boil until the meat is tender and cooked (approximately 30 minutes).

Once the meat is fully cooked, add the sauerkraut with only some of the liquid. (If the sauerkraut has been pre-cooked and is softened, cooking time in the stew will be short. If it is still “crisp” then boil until the sauerkraut softens, before adding the cream mixture). Season with salt, black pepper, and cumin.

When the sauerkraut is heated through, add the cream mixture. Stir often until the stew comes to a boil once again. Taste to make any additions in salt or spices. Once the stew comes to a boil, turn off the heat and serve.

In Slovakia, segedínsky guláš is often served with knedľa – slices of soft bread that is steamed rather than baked (see photo). Otherwise, serve with a light-colored bread.

¹ If the sauerkraut is very sour, place it in a sieve and rinse it. Additionally, adding sugar will also reduce the sourness.

² Toasted flour is called zápražka in Slovak. Zápražka also translates as roux, but is made without using lard or butter. Its purpose is to thicken the stew. To make zápražka, place the desired amount of flour into a non-stick pan over medium heat, and stir constantly for a few minutes with a wooden spoon until the flour browns slightly and evenly.

Note 1: If you think the sauerkraut taste is too strong in the soup, season with more sugar and some chicken bullion.

Note 2: I’ve also made this recipe without the heavy cream and instead added another cup of milk. It came out just as good.

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